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NEVER A DULL MOMENT IN RHODES HARBOUR

We were moored in the stunning harbour of Rhodes town for just over 2 fun-packed weeks. This was not our original intention as we had sailed here from Marmaris, Turkey to refuel and provision before heading east to Syria. On leaving the harbour I stupidly managed to get my fingers caught in the anchor winch losing the top of my little finger and damaging a couple of others. As a consequence we needed to remain near to the hospital for treatment and check-ups.

Those familiar with the harbour will know that a chain running along the south side of the marina is a daily obstacle for boats mooring here, snagging innumerable anchors and often bringing out the dive boat to assist. A further hazard is boats throwing their anchors across ours; the charter fleet are the worst offenders. We have now had our anchor picked up or dragged at least 5 times obliging at least one of us to remain on the boat at all times.

We were alerted to a crisis one morning with a loud crash into our davits. We rushed out to find an old Greek wooden boat across our stern. They were trying to come into the marina with only one small fender each side. When they finally manoeuvred into the berth next to us they scraped the paint down the side of our boat. Promises of compensation came to nothing due to lack of insurance. There was apparently nothing the marina or the port police could do. Additionally the Captain left his boat with a slack rope on the anchor, leaning on us. With high winds developing overnight Nic had to winch it in at 1am to avoid disaster.

At the beginning of our stay we were having drinks on a friend’s boat. There was a sudden screech and scream. We all turned to see a girl hurtling on a motorbike towards us. She flew off the quay and ended up hanging on to our friend’s mooring rope with one hand and the motorbike with the other. With our help and that of neighbouring boats she and the bike were pulled to safety with surprising little damage.

Enough drama we thought, but no, we also weathered out a 24 hour southerly storm. The winds were steadily Force 6/7 gusting Force 8/9 compelling us to deploy an additional anchor and run our engine to prevent being blown onto the quay. Down from us a catamaran sank - the anchor didn’t hold and the boat was being thrown against the concrete. The English owner had flown back the UK without leaving a key or telephone number making it impossible to get into the boat to start the engine and reset the anchor. A hole finally opened up in one of the hulls and the boat started going under putting the neighbouring boat in peril. The coast guard, marina staff and port police were all involved in trying to save the catamaran. Terrible to see a boat lost to negligence on the part of the owner.

Finally, in totally calm weather, another traditional wooden boat arrived and caught the line on our fisherman’s anchor in its propeller. The line had to be cut and we had to pull him into the mooring by rope.

Our departure was none the less eventful than our stay. The second fisherman’s anchor we had deployed in the storm was pinned under our neighbour’s anchor chain. It was only retrieved by diving for it. Once out of the harbour we managed to get a plastic bag around our propeller which had Nic in the water once again.

We reflected on our exciting time from the picturesque anchorage of Lindos…was it Rhodes or us acting as a magnet for drama? Only time will tell.

Last updated: 29 December, 2008